When Stateline Road Smokehouse opens August 8th, it will bring Kansas City style barbecue to Napa from a Paris of the Plains native, executive chef and co-owner Darryl Bell. While Kansas City is a reference point, so are the other aspects of Bell: his fine-dining experience and cooking skills honed at places like Bouchon Bistro, Alinea in Chicago, and Press in St. Helena. Supporting neighborhood businesses is also important to Bell and co-owner Jeremy Threat, so many of the products will be sourced around block, like charcoal from Wilson's Feed & Supply shop and beans from Rancho Gordo.
While Kansas City barbecue purists may disagree with a thicker cut on the brisket and a lighter hand with the sauce, for Bell Stateline Road Smokehouse is the intersection of the culinary history of where he grew up, and the kitchen training that became his career. It is an expression of who Bell is now.
“I look at Kansas City as a starting point from a chef's perspective, and I ask, ‘Is that really the best way to do it? Or what can I do to get me the most flavor?’” says Bell. “I want to showcase the technique and the skill behind making barbecue.”
The Smoked Maitake and Greens salad is a great example. By smoking maitake (or hen of the woods) mushrooms with cherry wood, the meaty mushrooms get the KC barbecue treatment. Combined with lettuces, marinated Rancho Gordo black garbanzo beans, puffed rice, and dressed in a verdant lemon vinaigrette, the salad combines the best techniques and sensibilities of Napa and Kansas City in something that speaks of both terroirs.
While some of his techniques might be challenging to replicate at home, hopefully this recipe will inspire you to unleash your creativity in your kitchen.
- 2 cups mixed greens
- Lemon Vinaigrette to taste (Chef Bell uses a lemon-aioli vinaigrette)
- 1/4 cup cooked, drained Rancho Gordo Black Garbanzos
- 2 oz smoked Maitake mushrooms
- 1 tablespoon puffed black rice (heat oil to 400 degrees, then add black rice and fry until it puffs; toss with salt and seasonings)
- Salt to tase
Makes 1 serving
- In a serving bowl, combine the mixed greens with enough dressing to coat well. Top with garbanzos, mushrooms, and puffed rice. Season to taste with salt.
Written by Lou Bustamante. We are thrilled to have Lou (@thevillagedrunk) doing some guest writing for our blog. He's been featuring some of our favorite bean-friendly spots in the Bay Area. Lou is a skilled freelance writer and journalist, with over 14 years experience food writing for local and national publications, including authoring two books.